Post About Make Up Brushes

OutdoorA pioneer in the field, RABBIT intends to celebrate the potential for poetry to explore and interrogate the boundaries of nonfiction writing. RABBIT encourages poets to openly engage with auto/biography, history, politics, economics, mathematics, cultural analysis, science, the environment, and all other aspects of real world experience, recollection and interpretation.

RABBIT publishes all things poetry – poems, reviews, essays on poetry and poetics, interviews with poets, and visual art by poets – with an emphasis on new and emerging rabbits (poets) and a focus on supporting Australian poetry.

Some of the contributors to the journal include Michael Brennan, Stuart Cooke, Johanna Drucker, Kenneth Goldsmith, Duncan Hose, Michael Farrell, Jordie Albiston, Petra White, Alex Skovron, Robert Sullivan, Ian McBryde, Kate Middleton, Jill Jones, Patrick Jones, Eileen Myles, Ann Vickery, Lesley Wheeler, Ania Walwicz, Pierre Joris, Peter Boyle, Ken Bolton, Fiona Hile and Pam Brown.

Water is Essential
It is my opinion that water is the most important of the basics. A clean, consistent water supply is essential to general health and good condition. I believe the water should be consistent both in its availability and in its quality. That is, giving well water one week, and chlorinated water the next, and filtered the next is not consistent in quality. The water will vary in bacteria, chemicals, and minerals.

A Holland needs about 1/2 cup of water per day. So I make sure they have at least one cup per adult rabbit. I have an automatic watering system, but I am liberal in the use of crocks as well. Since I recently wrote about water in detail, I’ll not expound any further.

Don’t Forget the Hay
If you feed a lower protein diet and don’t give carbohydrate treats or conditioners, you might get away with feeding little or not hay. I say “might” because you’ll never know until you start losing rabbits. It’s not worth the risk to me.

I do think that the higher your protein level or the larger the proportion of carbohydrate treats in the rabbit’s diet, the more they need their hay.

Rabbits need a high fiber, relatively low protein, low fat, low carbohydrate diet. Hay fits that profile perfectly.

Protection
Here’s a quick list of what a rabbit should be protected from:

  • Wind
  • Draft in cold weather
  • Precipitation/dampness
  • Direct sunshine
  • Heat
  • Predators
  • Sudden noises and/or movement

Protection from wind can come from being inside a house or barn or from being covered with a tarp. I’ve read that one solid side and a top are sufficient. I think that two adjoining solid sides is better; it gives them a corner to snuggle into.

Rabbits inside a barn may still be in a drafty place. That might be great in the summer. They’ll love the air movement then. But in the cold, that can cause a problem. A draft reduces the rabbit’s ability to conserve its own body heat. You can stop the draft, move the cage, or give the rabbit a small enclosure where it can go to get out of the draft.

Rabbits cannot maintain their body head efficiently if they are wet. While a mild mist in very hot weather is unlikely to cause a problem, being damp in the winter is deadly.

A rabbit exposed to direct sunlight with no place to get into the shade can die on a relatively cool day. It doesn’t need to be 95 degrees to be a problem. Take sun exposure very seriously and give all of your rabbits shade.

The Wasp Trap Revolution

Currently, people are more aware of better ways to deal with pests without using chemicals or being inhumane. We all agree that even a pest has value, and so it is better to control than eliminate them. Wasps are important pollinators, natural predators, and seed dispersal agents, which makes wasp trap the ideal solution.

While they can also kill some beneficial insects, they can be very helpful in eating crop-destroying bugs, such as grubs, caterpillars, and weevils. They are so useful in this respect that farmers will sometimes ship wasps in as a natural pest control for their crops. Now that’s an all-natural pesticide!

This is something I never heard before today, but wasps actually help pollinate plants! Honeybees are far more effective because of their hairy legs, but still, considering the alarming health of our bee colonies, we need all the help we can get, and wasps do help pollinate.

Sourced from: http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/responsible-living/blogs/2-reasons-to-leave-a-wasp-nest-in-your-yard

While wasps have many benefits, sometimes it becomes necessary to control the wasps. There exist a lot of options, but most of them involve complete annihilation, which robs the gardener of the benefits of wasps. However, wasp traps are a perfect because their aim is to control wasps while allowing the gardener to get the benefits. So, what are wasp traps? Chineseherbshealing.com gives a precise definition.

It mainly refers to the nests of Polistes mandarinus Saussure, which is an insect in the family Vespidae. However, sometimes the nests of Polistes olivaceus (DeGeer), Polistes japonicus Saussure, or Parapolybia varia Fabricius, etc. are also used medicinally too. Other names include Nidus Vespae, Honeycomb, Hornet Nest, and so on. It is produced all over China, especially in the south. It is usually collected during autumn and winter. Also, the following steps are drying in the sun, or slightly steaming, removing dead wasps and wasp nest eggs, and then drying in the sun. It is used raw or fried.

Sourced from: http://www.chineseherbshealing.com/wasp-nest/

Arizona.edu explains one of the versions of a DIY wasp trap.

Traps can be used when large numbers of yellow jackets are pestering outdoor diners. Commercial traps are available in reusable and disposable designs. I have always used a homemade trap made from a five-gallon bucket, a stick, a piece of wire, and a fish or meat scrap. A piece of fish or meat is tied to the wire and suspended from the stick over the bucket above a few inches of soapy water. The yellow jackets eat so much that they cannot fly very well. When they take off, they hit the side of the bucket and fall into the soapy water where they sink to the bottom. Some yellow jackets will still pester diners, but they eventually find the bucket.

Sourced from: http://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/waspsandyellowjackets.html

The bottom line is that wasps have numerous benefits, so it is much better to control them rather than use inhumane methods available. wasp traps are perfect for any gardener who needs to control wasps.

Best way to search is on http://google.com

Outdoor Rabbit Hutch

According to barneyandjemima.co.uk, rabbits are quickly becoming one of the ideal pets in most parts of the world. Even more importantly, the fact that rabbits are extremely sensitive and require proper care, which includes a good rabbit hutch.

Rabbits need to be kept warm and dry, so they make ideal pets as house rabbits. However they can also live in rabbit hutches outside as long as they are kept safe, warm and dry, and you give them lots of companies every day. If they are lonely, cold or wet, their life expectancy and general wellbeing will be much reduced.

Sourced from: http://www.barneyandjemima.co.uk/care/outdoor.html

Interestingly, most families believe that the best option for rabbit housing is indoor housing. However, a rabbit needs exposure to the environment as long as it is well housed and protected. The outdoor rabbit hutch should adhere to some specifications as advised on barneyandjemima.co.uk.

If your rabbit is to live outside, you should keep it in a secure hutch. The hutch should be large enough for your rabbit to take several hops in any direction, and should have an outdoor run and a smaller enclosed sleeping area.

The outdoor run should have a solid floor and wire mesh on at least one side to let plenty of light in. The enclosed sleeping area should have a small entrance from the run and should be enclosed by solid walls on all sides. The entire hutch should have a solid roof to keep the rain off; the roof can hinge upwards to give you easy access for cleaning. Cover the whole floor of the hutch with suitable bedding, such as wood shavings, hay or newspaper. Make the layer of bedding thicker in the sleeping area.

Your rabbit will choose a section of the hutch to use as its toilet area; you should clean this area each day and clean the whole hutch around once a week. Use an animal safe disinfectant when cleaning. You should also provide a supply of hay and water; see our feeding section for more information about this.

Sourced from: http://www.barneyandjemima.co.uk/care/outdoor.html

an image of rabbit%20hutch File:Large Rabbit Hutch.jpg

Another important factor is the size of the rabbit hutch. Most indoor hutches are so minute and limit the rabbit’s movements. Rabbit.org explains the requirements regarding size.

Bigger is better! A rabbit’s home should be at least 4-6 times the size of your bunny when he’s entirely stretched out–more if he is confined to a large amount of the day. Enclosure sizes also should be decided in conjunction with the amount of exercise time and space the rabbit has. One guideline to go by is at least 8 square feet of enclosure space combined with at least at least 24 square feet of exercise space, for 1-2 rabbits, in which the rabbit(s) can run and play at least 5 hours per day. You can build or buy your rabbit a two-story “condo” with the floors connected by a ramp–they love this!

Sourced from: http://rabbit.org/faq-housing/

Therefore, rabbits do not need cages; one just needs to understand the nature of the animal so as to provide the best environment for your pet rabbit.

Your rabbit does not need a cage. However, an untrained rabbit probably should be kept in a home base of some kind, like an ex-pen, a large cage, or some other protected housing, while you’re not home to supervise and at night when you sleep.

Rabbits are crepuscular, which means that generally they sleep during the day and during the night but are ready to play at dawn and at twilight. Be sure to let them out during the evening when you are home, and if possible, in the morning while you get ready for work.

However, once your rabbit is familiar with your home, once you know what your rabbit does, and once your house has been fully bunny proofed, there’s no reason that he or she can’t have run off your home even when you’re not there.

Sourced from: http://rabbit.org/faq-housing/

There are many commercially available designs of rabbit hutch that rabbit lover has access to for a price. However, it is best to use a design suitable for your pet, which in most cases involves buying rabbit hutch designs and constructing the hutch yourself.

Building a Bug Hotel

Insect hotels are easy to make, can be assembled from all manner of found, recycled, or up-cycled materials, and can provide a cute little home for insect friends for many years to come.

These hotels are vital for all manner of wee beasties to find shelter year-round, and are particularly important for winter. Some bee, wasp, ladybug, butterfly, and moth species hibernate over the winter, and safe little homes where they can stay warm and dry until springtime are much appreciated. Each of these species has a different type of home requirement, so depending on which bibites your recipient would like to attract and keep in the garden; you can decide which materials and compartments (apartments?) to create in this amazing bug condo.

Sourced from: http://inhabitat.com/diy-how-to-build-an-insect-hotel-from-found-materials/

The bug hotel is constructed from recycled materials that are environmentally friendly. The most common items needed for building a bug hotel are as follows:

  1. A wooden box or open birdhouse that has an overhanging lip to keep rain/snow out.
  2. An assortment of twigs, wood chips, rolled up paper, leaves, or hollow reeds (bamboo works well), thin cardboard tubing, and (if desired), blocks of wood with holes drilled into them.
  3. Hot glue gun and glue sticks.
  4. Twine or wire to hang the finished hotel, or some post on which to elevate it.

Sourced from: http://inhabitat.com/diy-how-to-build-an-insect-hotel-from-found-materials/

The bug hotel is easy to build; one of the methods is as follows:

  1. Cut cedar boards to the dimensions listed using a table saw or have them cut at your local hardware store if you don’t have one.
  2. Screw the box together by drilling pilot holes first through.
  3. Arrange plant materials within the structure, packed tightly so it will stay put, but with lots of available crevices for the bugs.
  4. Affix hanging hardware and hang in an area of the garden that is close to where you want the bugs next season.

Sourced from: http://gardentherapy.ca/build-a-bug-hotel/

an image of Hotel%20bugs Bug hotel, Chester Zoo

The insect hotel should be located in an area that is exposed to sunlight but protected from bad weather.

The ideal location for an insect hotel is in full sun and protected from the weather. This will ensure that the heat required for the brood is present, and wind or rain will not destroy their nest.

Sourced from: http://www.inspirationgreen.com/insect-habitats.html

It’s all very well building a handsomely equipped bug hotel but for it to become the destination of choice, it has to be in prime position. Set your hotel up in a sheltered area of the garden or allotment away from the prevailing wind. Most insects prefer slightly damp conditions but solitary bees demand the sunniest aspect possible to help them get out and about on a cold day. Your hotel will become fully occupied quicker if it is located close to an existing insect hotspot: a hedge, bank of nectar-rich flowers or a pond, for example.

Sourced from: http://www.growveg.com/growblogpost.aspx?id=329

The insect/bug hotels provide shelter for insects especially in winter and rainy season. It is easy to build and should be designed according to the needs of the insect target group. There are many designs for the insect bugs readily available for the construction of DIY bug hotels.